Shoe and method of making same



June 5, 1945. A( MosKowi-rz 2,377,570

` SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING' SAME Filed slept.Y 1, 1944 /A/ |/EN Toe:

Hamm Mas fro w/ rz,

V.be taken to obtain uniform work.

Patented June 5,A 1945 Abram Moskowitz, University City,

Mo., assignor to Milius Shoe Company, St. Louis, Mo., 'a corporation of Missouri Application September 1, 1944, Serial No. 552,276 2 Claims. (Cl. 36-19.5)

This invention relates to a shoe and a method of making it.

An object of this invention is to provide a shoe and a method of making it which will have the characteristics" of a conventional shoe and which can be made with savings in labor and material. With the present invention a shoe is provided having substantially the appearance and wearing qualities of a conventional shoe. At the same time the labor involvedin the usual operations of lasting is eliminated, it being replaced by the relatively simpler operations of sewing and slip lasting. This results in a reduction of labor hours required for the production of the shoe, and eliminates the large amount of highly skilled labor and expensive machinery required for conventional lasting operations.

A shoe is provided nevertheless which has cer. tain desirable characteristics diii'ering from a conventionall shoe, in that a uniformly smooth bottom is assured.

In appearance the shoe departs from the conventlonal shoe in having an inconspicuous bead around the bottom just above the insole, but this ad rather than being a detriment may add to the appearance of the shoe, especially in the novelty class where the material forming the bead is of different color wlhich may bemade to match trimmings on the s oe.

A further object of the invention is to provide a shoe of uniform proportions. In conventional lasting methods, considerable pull or stress is placed upon the parts and extreme care must 'I'his is espefrom that of the upper and' Fig. 4 is a. plan view of an insole member used in the shoe; l

Fig. 5 is` an elevational view of the structure at an intermediate step;

Fig. 6 is an elevational view at a step subsequent to that illustrated in Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is a section on line 1 1, Fig. 6;

Fig; 8 is a section on line 8 8, Fig. 6;

Fig. 9 is an elevational yiew of a 'completed shoe; and

Fig. 10 is a section on line Ill-l0, Fig. 9, with the thickness of material greatly exaggerated.

The specific construction illustrated and described is a preferred one, which is subject of course to variations, within thescope of the appended claims, which define the invention.

' A closed upper l is provided; which is of the l same character as an upper prepared for use in cially true where yielding upper material is used y and also where the upper has open work. With the present structure and method, the shoes are vaccurately cut and assembled without distortion in the manufacture so that when completed they are uniform without special effort and attention.

In general, the Object of the invention is to produce a superior slip-lasted shoe with its economies which will have generally the appearance and give the service of a conventionally lasted shoe, thus bringing to the consumer more outstanding values.

These objects will be apparent from the following detail description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing.

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of an assembled upper,

sock liner and cover ta Fig. 2 is a section online 2 2, Fig. l; Fig. 3 is a section on line 3-3, Fig. 1;,

the manufacture of the usual McKay,-Littleway or cemented shoe, with two exceptions. It is unnecessary in the method of making the present shoe to' provide a. full lining. A lining, if employed, is co-extensivel only with the :areas intended to be lined inthe completedshoe. In the manufacture of shoes having cutout portions, such as open heels and toes, 'a completed lining is employed where the shoe is lasted over an insole; but under the present process such lining covering the cutout portions is unnecessary.

A second departure from the usual method isin the provision of lasting allowance. Only such an allowance is made as is necessary to provide a. margin for seams 2 and 3, which will be presently described.

A sock liner l is cut approximately to the conventional insole pattern ofthe shoe for vwhich the part is intended, with the provisions of suffi# cient allowance only for the seams 2 and ill by been cut to such which it is attached to the upper I and a cover tape i.

The cover tape lsurrounds the upper and the sock liner. While theoretically a single seam 2, uniting the three members, is suflicient, in actual practice the two seams are preferably employed. The upper l is iivrst attached to the sock liner by a seam 2. Then a seam 3 unites all three parts. The parts sov united are best shown in Figs. 2 and 3. v

After the parts above referred to have been as. sembled, the upper is in the form shown in Fig. 1, and is then ready for slip lasting; and for the rst` time a last pattern and so assembled that the structure formed nicely lits the last E of the shoe. That is to say, the patterns are such that is employed. 'I'he parts have when the parts' are accurately cut and properly sewed, a glove-like iit results. I

The upper I may be made of any selected material suitable for uppers and, while not shown, it is contemplated that a lining will ordinarily be used. The sock liner 4 may be of such material as is usually employed for, -that purpose.

Because of the methodof applying the sock liner by stitching it tothe upper, fabric lendsI itself to use because then there are lno rugged edges. Faille is a material recommended for this purpose if a shoe -suitable for stockingless -wear is desired. The tape 5 may be of the same material as the upper, or of different suitable material.

either leather, fabric or plastic.'

An insole member 1 is provided. This member is rounded to a pattern substantially smaller of this thickness will be about the same as the combined thickness of the upper, sock liner and tape, so that it will act as a filler, as shown in Figs. '7, 8 and 10.

It will thus be understood that while the term insole member is used, this member also serves the purpose of a leveling member or filler. Nevertheless it does serve the primary purpose of an insole.

After theupper assembly has been slip lasted, as shown in Fig. 5, the insole member 1 is laid upon the sock liner and within the margins of the material formed by the stitches 2 and 3. The tape 5 is then turned over the edge of the upper l and about the seam 2 and cemented down upon the exposed surfaces, or bottom surface of the insole 1, as shown in Figs. 6, '7 and 8. If desired, a felt strip 8, or other resilient ller member may be placed within the outline of the inner edge of the tape 5.

The insole member 1 may or may not be molded before the application to the upper assembly. It may also include, not shown, the usual fiber shank reinforcement.

After the application of the insole and after 'the tape 5 has been secured down on the exposed side of the insole, the shoe is ready for such further bottom preparation as may be necessary prior to laying vand attaching a sole 9. This may include the 'provision of a steel shank stiffener. If the sole is to be cementedthe bottom will be roughened. The arrangement of the tape 5 is such that this can be done vwithout cutting the stitches 2 and l, since they are protected by the tape. The present invention is particularly adapted for use with a cemented sole for this reason. But the sole may be attached by sewing, according to any one of several conventional processes, such as McKay or Littleway, if desired.

It is to be understood that subsequent to the steps shown completed in Fig. 6, the shoe may be finished according to conventional methods, with which the present invention is not specificallyconcerned. A heel l0 may be attached and a heel pad I I applied. y

It will now be seen that the insole 1 performs the usual functions of an insole, although this method of preparation and of application departs substantially from. the -usual practices. It is firmly secured to the upper and rmly attached .to the sole.

The extensive procedures of lasting have been dispensed with, including the skilled labor re' quired and the expensive and intricate machinery which is employed for lasting operations. The present method also dispenses with the necessity of margin trimming, and other bottom preparation required in a lasted shoe.

Various changes may be made in the details of construction, within the scope of theappended claims, without departing from the spirit of this invention.

I claim:

1. A shoe having an upper, a sock liner, a cover tape, a seam uniting the edges of said upper, sock liner and cover tape, an insole member next to the sock liner and lying within the said seam and the margins of the said upper, sock liner and cover tape, the cover tape being turned over and inwardly about the edge of the insole member and secured to the bottom side of the said insole, thereby forming a bead about the bottom of the upper, and an outsole secured to the structure aforesaid and fastened to the tape.

2. In the method of making a shoe, the steps including providing a shoe upper, providing "a insole pattern with sufficient allowance 4to accommodateV a seam about its edges, providing a cover tape to surround the bottom of the shoe, uniting the edges of the upper, the sock liner and the tape by stitches, the upper and sock liner being cut to such patterns that when assembled as aforesaid the structures so formed will t vprecisely upon a last of the shoe, then slip lasting the structure, providing an insole member sufilciently smaller than a conventional insole pattern to lie wholly within the said seam and the margins of the material united thereby, laying said insole member upon the sock liner,` turning the tape over the edge of the insole member and securing it against the bottom surface of said insole member, laying and securing a sole and finishing the shoe.

ABRAM MOSKOWITZ. 

